Dinner @ Nishiazabu Taku 西麻布 拓 (Tokyo, Japan)

October 4, 2020 in Japanese

Unlike my Japan trip in 2018 which my sushi planning was based on recommendation from a Japanese foodie instagrammer, my February 2019 trip was planned to my foodie friends’ recommendations. In particular @zachdevours‘. Whom I also nick ‘InstaGram Bottomless Pit’ on my blog. My gosh. It has been a long while since I mentioned IGBP here. Keke.

And like me, IGBP travels to Japan annually. Well okie… Minus 2020 cause of COVID-19. However, while I preferred checking out different places, IGBP and his family would religiously return to their regular sushi-hunts. So I was keen to check out IGBP’s recommendations (Nishiazabu Taku and Sukiyabashi Jiro Roppongi) and understand the ‘pull factor’.

My hotel concierge assisted to make the reservation at Nishiazabu Taku. Got them to specifically request for head chef Kenji Ishizaka as I read that customers at Nishiazabu Taku would be served by either head chef or sous chef. And it would have been nice too if I managed to match my appointment date with IGBP’s, but somehow our meal schedules just couldn’t align. Boohoo.

The L-shaped counter could sit up to 8 people. And at 6pm, I was the first to arrive at the restaurant. I guessed I must be the only one eating early that evening because once I settled down, head chef Ishizaka san immediately commenced my ¥21,600 omakase dinner with:-

1) Dish #1 (above) – Broad bean. And I was unsure how exactly to eat these when head chef Ishizaka san placed the dish in front me. Seeing my puzzled look, I was told to pick it up with my hands and squeeze the bean out from the skin. Ahhh…

2) Dish #2 (above) – Sea cucumber with jelly.

3) Dish #3 (above) – Flounder.

4) Dish #4 (above) – Grilled flounder fin.

5) Dish #5 (above) – イボダイ. Am able to share the fish’s Japanese name (and in Japanese character) because head chef Ishizaka san made reference to a book while trying to explain the fish that was served. And yup! It’s a small butter fish.

6) Dish #6 (above) – Clam, lightly grilled. And was told to enjoy it with salt.

7) Dish #7 (above) – Baby snapper. And to give me a gauge of how ‘big’ the baby snapper was, head chef Ishizaka san said he could only get 2 such pieces from it.

8) Dish #8 (above) – Ice fish with fresh sea weed.

9) Dish #9 (above) – Needlefish.

10) Dish #10 (above) – Cod milt.

11) Dish #11 (above) – King salmon from Hokkaido.


12) Dish #12 (above) – Short spine sea urchin.

13) Dish #13 (above) – Purple sea urchin.

14) Dish #14 (above) – Shiitake mushroom with ponzu sauce.

15) Dish #15 (above) – King squid, aged for 5 days.

16) Dish #16 (above) – Squid legs, served with a little salt.

17) Dish #17 (above) – Steamed egg (chawanmushi) with clam stock.

18) Dish #18 (above) – Spanish mackerel belly.

19) Dish #19 (above) – Smoked Spanish mackerel. And for this, I was told it’s a cut from the back.

20) Dish #20 (above) – Rock fish. And interestingly, I was told to eat the fish & vegetables separately.

21) Dish #21 (above) – Sandwich of daikon, shiso leaf and Japanese plum (ume).

22) Dish #22 (above) – Baby tuna (meiji maguro).

23) Dish #23 (above) – Swordfish. And instead of serving a (solid) slice of swordfish, he made the topping with swordfish scrape.

24) Dish #24 (above) – Premium fatty tuna (otoro).

25) Dish #25 (above) – Gizzard shad.

26) Dish #26 (above) – Japanese spotted prawn (botan ebi) with wasabi & soya.

27) Dish #27 (above) – And from the same Japanese spotted prawn (from the earlier dish), the remaining portion was grilled and served as a nigiri sushi.

28) Dish #28 (above) – Mackerel and turnip.

And by this point, I couldn’t resist but tell head chef Ishizaka san that I was full. His sushi was like size L, by the way. Very big mouthful! And he replied me by saying “Last one.” Last one? Okie!

29) Dish #29 (above) – Sea eel. And I could tell head chef Ishizaka san used lesser sushi rice for my last piece of my sushi. Keke.

30) Dish #30 (above) – Egg omlette (tamago). And it’s interesting that there’s 2 different textures within the 1 piece; The top half was smooth while the bottom half was like custard cake. Nice!

31) Dish #31 (above) – Miso soup.

32) Dish #32 (above) – Just when I thought I had come to the end of my meal, head chef Ishizaka san asked if I wanted ice cream. Oh my god. But not being able to resist even though I was full, he went on to mention there’s 5 flavours. Unable to choose 1 (since I would want 1 of each), I asked him for his recommendation. To which he said “3?” HAHA! And he must have noticed my eyes widening because he continued by saying “small ones!” Too cute.. And I went with his recommendation of kinako, shouyu and houjicha.

So on the night of my dinner, head chef Ishizaka san attended to 5 (including me) while the other 2 seated at the counter were attended by the sous chef. There was also another group in the private room. And while head chef Ishizaka san didn’t speak much, one could tell he takes a lot of pride in the dishes he put in front of us. He would often gently gaze at me to check my reaction and to make sure I was enjoying myself. He’s pretty chilled (or open-minded?) too because he didn’t mind the pair of (Japanese & non-Japanese) customers conversing loudly. And I noticed he alternate cooked dishes (otsumami) with the sushi-s. A pretty ingenious idea actually to prevent sushi ‘saturation’ especially since his sushi was pretty big.

IGBP who always had head chef Ishizaka san for their previous meals at Nishiazabu Taku suddenly had the sous chef for their 2019 meal. And he shared with me that there’s definitely a difference. So I would say it’s necessary to request for head chef Ishizaka san if one decides to dine at Nishiazabu Taku.

And a little more about head chef Ishizaka san… He didn’t start off being the head chef at Nishiazabu Taku. Kenji Ishizaka san was training at Ginza Kyubey when he crossed path with Takuya Sato san. On the fifth year of opening Nishiazabu Taku (2010), Sato san got Ishizaka san to come onboard as the second chef. And it was in 2016 when Sato san decided to relocate to Hawaii to help a friend (master chef Keiji Nakazawa of Sushi Sho-Tokyo) to open a sushi restaurant (Sushi Sho Honolulu) that Ishizaka san stepped up to become head chef of Nishiazabu Taku.

So do I recommend 1 Michelin starred Nishiazabu Taku? Yes, but it wouldn’t be a restaurant that comes immediately to mind if one asked me for sushi-ya recommendation in Tokyo. How should I better put it… It was a good meal but the dining experience didn’t leave a deep impression. But that’s because rather than trying to impress by taking out slabs of fishes, etc, head chef Ishizaka san allowed his dishes to speak for themselves. And that also meant he had minimal interaction with customers. It was as though he didn’t want to disturb us unnecessarily. So yes, if one is in a big group and would like a place where one could converse freely yet still be able to enjoy safe and good sushi, Nishiazabu Taku is definitely the place to go to.

And the lack of attention on social media meant if one left planning to the very last minute or have extra meal slots for filling, one should be able to get a seat at Nishiazabu Taku pretty easily. But having said that, don’t take the risk by booking a few days ahead only. At least 1.5 weeks notice please!

My meal came up to ¥21,600, including tax and service charge.

NISHIAZABU TAKU 西麻布 拓
1F, 2-11-5 Nishiazabu, Minato City, Tokyo, Japan (東京都 港区 西麻布 2-11-5 カパルア西麻布 1F)
+81 3 5774 4372, Tablelog
Overall: 8
Opening hours:-
Food/Beverage: 8
Mon – Sat : 18:00 – 22:30
Ambience: 7
Value: 8
Service: 8
* Closed on Sun

Dinner @ Longtail (Taipei, Taiwan)

September 30, 2020 in European

My 2019 trip to Taiwan was a trip with my Mom and youngest brother. And I really wanted to treat them to delicious food, but also at a place where they wouldn’t feel uncomfortable. Uh huh… Unlike me, they aren’t into fine-dining. And after researching, I felt Longtail would be a good venue to bring them to. With 1 Michelin star, Longtail was more of a semi-casual restaurant than a posh restaurant with strict dress code. And so, reservation was made for 3 through Longtail’s website for a Saturday evening.

And we arrived punctually at the restaurant at 7pm. From the menu (pages 1, 2, 3, 4), we ordered:-


1) Fig toast, ricotta cheese, port wine, lemon balm, NT$380 (above)


2) Foie gras and duck confit dumpling, nuoc mam, peanut, pomelo, NT$680 (above)


3) Char siu bao, house kimchi, coriander, NT$420 (above)


4) Fried chicken, sweet potato, piri piri, NT$480 (above)

5) Tilefish spring peas, parmesan, lemon, herbs, NT$980 (above)

6) Pork chop, sukiyaki sauce, taro, chive, NT$1080 (above) – The fried yam ball added a nice touch to the dish. Reminded me of our Chinese ‘yam dish’. Love it!


7) Whisky-chocolate mousse, maqau pepper, Taiwanese chocolate ice cream, NT$320 (above)

We had a lovely dinner at Longtail. I was relieved my Mom and brother enjoyed themselves. Not all dishes were hits, but my favourite was the foie gras and duck confit dumpling while my brother’s was the fried chicken. If one’s looking for a relaxed yet cool-to-be-seen-at eatery with good food and interesting cocktail concoction, Longtail would be an ideal venue. My brother and I ordered 2 cocktails, but didn’t take any pictures. Sorry.

Would I recommend Michelin-starred Longtail? Yes!

LONGTAIL
No. 174, Section 2, Dunhua South Road, Da’an District, Taipei, Taiwan
+886 2 2732 6616, Website, Facebook
Overall: 7.5
Opening hours:-
Food/Beverage: 7
Mon, Wed & Sun : 18:00 – 02:00
Ambience: 8
Thur – Sat : 18:00 – 03:00
Value: 8
Service: 7
* Closed on Tues

Dinner @ Sushi Ryu 鮨 隆 (Taipei, Taiwan)

September 25, 2020 in Japanese

I try to keep myself updated with Taiwan’s Japanese dining scene, especially since I made a pact to myself (in 2017) to travel to Taiwan at least once a year. I mean… Although the primary purpose of the trips was to pray at temples, I also squeeze in some time to visit restaurants. Keke. And for my 2019 trip to Taipei, I made reservation for dinner at Sushi Ryu.

I initially wanted to make reservation at Sasa Sushi which was on my restaurants-to-try list for a very long while. But when I was about to make my reservation, I realised Sasa Sushi’s head chef Yang Yonglong had left to open his own restaurant in late 2017. Thank goodness I did my homework. And I read his restaurant was named Sushi Ryu because Ryu was the romanised Japanese for ‘Long’, which was his name in Chinese.

But on the day of my dinner, I did some last minute research on Sushi Ryu and realised there’s more than 1 chef. Ie, I may be served by the sous chef. And because I was heading to Sushi Ryu specifically for chef-owner Yonglong’s sushi, I quickly made a call (but 1.5 hours before my 8pm reservation) and requested for head chef Yonglong. And the staff, on the other end of the line, asked me to come down earlier.

Sushi Ryu was a 15 to 18 minutes walk from Zhongshan station. There were customers who were halfway through their meals when I arrived at the restaurant at 7.40pm. With some arriving much later after me.

The counter could sit up to 16 people. Once I was seated, the staff immediately served me pickled vegetables (radish and cucumber) and hot tea before asking if it was my first time at Sushi Ryu. After replying “yes”, the staff continued to explain there’s no menu. Instead, I was to choose either the NT$5000, NT$6000, NT$7000 or omakase menu. For the latter, the staff said the chef would only stop serving after I say I’m full.

And of the 4, I went with the NT$6000 menu. I normally would go with the most expensive menu. But just before my trip to Taiwan, I was conversing with a foodie friend who mentioned Michelin inspectors normally judge a restaurant by their cheapest menu. So yeah, I was slightly influenced by that… Instead of the NT$7000 menu, I dropped ‘one level’ and ordered the NT$6000 menu. Although I probably say it’s mainly because I wanted to save some money. Keke.

And I commenced my NT$6000 dinner menu with:-


1) Dish #1 (above) – Steamed egg (chawanmushi) with crab meat and (what I thought was) potato.

2) Dish #2 (above) – Yellowtail.

3) Dish #3 (above) – Ginkgo nut.

4) Dish #4 (above) – Barracuda stick sushi, with shiso leaf and pickled daikon.

5) Dish #5 (above) – Octopus. And head chef Yonglong said it was cooked with red bean instead of soya sauce. Interesting. Although I hope I didn’t hear him wrongly too. I admit, there were some moments when I didn’t quite understand what was being said. I blame it on the accent rather than my poor grasp of Chinese. Keke!


6) Dish #6 (above) – Scallop with mullet roe.

7) Dish #7 (above) – Smoked spanish mackerel (sawara) with diced onion. And instead of smoking the fish with hay (which was the norm), head chef Yonglong shared wood charcoal was used to better control the smoke because he received a lot of complaints from his landlord due to the high risk of activating the sprinklers. Haha. Such an interesting fact!

8) Dish #8 (above) – Cod with pepper flakes.

  
  
  
  
  
  

9) Dish #9 (above) – Nigiri sushi assortment. And I was served squid (ika), big-eye snapper (kinmedai), flounder (hirame) with flounder fin (engawa), sea bream (madai), prawn (ain’t too sure if it’s botan-ebi or shima-ebi), short spine sea urchin (bafun uni), monkfish liver (ankimo) with pickled watermelon, salmon roe (ikura), premium fatty tuna (otoro), slightly grilled premium fatty tuna (aburi otoro) and sea eel (anago). If I didn’t observe wrongly, head chef Yonglong didn’t slit the squid. Instead, he sliced them into thin strips, portioned them before pressing the strips down so that they stuck together. And it was interesting that the prawn was semi-cooked. Although there was no visible charred parts (most likely because it was upside-down), I could taste the smokiness that came from grilling it. And I was grateful that most of my sushi were kneaded personally by head chef Yonglong. Only the non-nigiri ones were done by the sous chef.

10) Dish #10 (above) – Egg omelette (tamago). This was not exactly airy. Neither was it dense. Although between airy and dense, it leaned towards the latter. Like a custard cake.

11) Dish #11 (above) – I was given the option to go with miso soup or clam soup. I went with latter. Sorry lah. When presented with choices, the ‘greedy me’ would surface. Oops.

12) Dish #12 (above) – Fruits.

Now… The reason why I was so particular and requested for head chef Yonglong was because I had (fresh) bad experience where the sushi head chef would just focus on his ‘stretch’ of customers. I wasn’t prepared to travel all the way to Taiwan and be served by the sous chef when I was headed to Sushi Ryu specifically for head chef Yonglong. But my worries were unfounded. Head chef Yonglong took care of everyone.

I noticed he handled the nigiri-sushi for everyone, including the couple who only came in at 8.30pm and ordered the NT$5000 menu. Nice! And it’s probably because he was just ‘one man’ making the sushi personally for all customers that our sushi-s came out slower when everyone eventually reached the sushi leg of their respective menus. But I honestly didn’t mind that because it allowed me to watch head chef Yonglong longer. I, generally, really enjoy watching chefs at work.

In fact, I noticed head chef Yonglong would knead the sushi slowly when he was just making sushi for 3 (me included). But when the 8 other customers caught up and he had to prepare sushi for 11, his hands moved faster. One could see how focused he was by his facial expression.

My meal came up to NT$6600. Would I recommend Sushi Ryu? Including Sushi Ryu, I now had sushi at 3 different sushi-yas in Taiwan. And of the 3, Sushi Ryu would be my favourite! Food wise, ambience wise and even service wise. So yes! I recommend Sushi Ryu!

And an interesting fact… Sushi Ryu was awarded its first Michelin Star just 6 months after its opening in Taipei in late 2017!

SUSHI RYU
No. 60-5, Section 2, Xinsheng North Road, Zhongshan District, Taipei City, Taiwan
+886 2 2581 8380, Website
Overall: 8
Opening hours:-
Food/Beverage: 8
Tues – Sun : 12:00 – 14:30 (Lunch)
Ambience: 8
Tues – Sun : 18:00 – 22:00 (Dinner)
Value: 8
Service: 8
* Closed on Mon