Dinner @ Ovenbird | SG-Japanese Fusion in Kampong Glam
February 18, 2022 in Japanese
Having been away for 2 years (mid 2019 to mid 2021), I had lots to catch up with Singapore food scene. A foodie friend was filling me in on what’s newly opened and what’s currently trending, and that’s how I learnt about Ovenbird. Ovenbird originally started off as private home dining but had to get a brick-and-mortar shop because it’s rumoured someone complained chef-owner Jeffery Yeo was handling raw food. I googled and it really wasn’t a rumour. It’s true. But to be exact, I read from his interview (link) that Singapore Food Agency visited him in September 2020 because someone reported he was preparing and serving sashimi at home. And with the new regulation implemented, home cooks are essentially banned from preparing and serving raw, ready to eat seafood.
But I guess the move was a blessing for us. Cause it meant chef Jeffery could house more people per seating. Slightly easier to get reservation? =)
Reservation is only slightly easier because it’s still a challenge to get seats at Ovenbird. Seats are snapped up within 30 minutes (or maybe less). My foodie friend had warned me that making the booking won’t be easy, but I didn’t know it was going to be that hard until I tried. I was lucky with my booking for September ’21, but wasn’t in my latest attempt in January ’22. I set alarm for 10am but was in the midst of a meeting and only went to the website an hour later. All slots for Summer menu 2022 were taken. Sob. Our September ’21 meal was for the Autumn menu.
Please be punctual because chef Jeffery starts everyone at the same time. And seats are first-come-first-serve. It’s either seats at the counter or communal table. And for a one-man restaurant, I got to say the drinks selection on the menu is impressive. It’s pretty extensive.
My girlfriend and I started our Autumn omakase, $130 with:-
1) Chawanmushi (above) – Sake sujiko, shoyuzuke. Chef Jeffery mentioned the steamed egg was intentionally bland to allow the flavours from the sujiko (salmon roe in sac) to come through.
2) Tataki – Katsuo (above) – Fresh line-caught bonito (4kg). Was told these were sliced thicker. Love it! And just as we finished the 3 slices, chef Jeffery asked if any of us wanted extra portion from the tail. A few of us raised our hands. Me included. Keke.
And from this point onwards, it was a crazy overload of amberjack. Chef Jeffery went on to take out 4 slabs of amberjack belly and started to sear them with his blowtorch. Occasionally spritzing sake on the bigger 3 slabs.
3) Aburi – Buri (Part 1) (above) – 5-day aged Hokkaido Autumn Japanese amberjack (11.1kg). We started with the fattiest part of the belly. Chef Jeffery only seared the skin so that the fat in the buri would melt-in-the-mouth when chewed into it. Really good.
4) Aburi – Buri (Part 2) (above) – 5-day aged Hokkaido Autumn Japanese amberjack (11.1kg). And this was the belly. Really thick. Fish steak, I call it.
5) Aburi – Buri (Part 3) (above) – 5-day aged Hokkaido Autumn Japanese amberjack (11.1kg). The loin cut. Served with some salt, this was good. And by this point, I also learnt the trick of eating this. All except the skin should come into contact with the ponzu sauce so that the seared skin would remain crisp.
6) Aburi – Buri (Part 4) (above) – 5-day aged Hokkaido Autumn Japanese amberjack (11.1kg). And as with the katsuo, chef Jeffery asked if we wanted additional. I naturally went for it, again. Ha. But 4 is really the maximum. Any more than 4 pieces and it’s an overkill. Chef Jeffery also mentioned the ponzu sauce would be the most flavourful by the end of our buri dish(es) as it would have absorbed all the fish oil. I actually preferred it halfway through (ie, second buri). The ponzu sauce was too oily by the fourth buri.
7) Steamed – Kuromutsu (above) – 5-day aged bluefish, steamed in chicken broth. This was more than just ‘aged and steamed’. Literally every diner couldn’t help but exclaim how good it was. Which got chef Jeffery very excited of course. He shared in detail of the many steps he took to cook this dish. Really good. Very delicate. Very juicy. Very flavourful.
8) Sashimi – Kinmedai (above) – 5-day aged splendid alfonsino, pumpkin puree. We were specifically told to let it sit for 3 minutes before tucking in, so that the fish could absorb some of the pumpkin. And the initial whiff reminded me much of curry. Apparently chef Jeffery added his own homemade curry powder (made with a lot of mustard seeds) into the pumpkin purée. Chef Jeffery shared this was his interpretation of kinmedai. However, I wasn’t a big fan of the dish. Didn’t help that the skin of the kinmedai was too burnt for my liking. I honestly didn’t think ‘too much smokiness’ would be an issue.
9) Samegarei kampot pepper (above) – 5-day aged Hokkaido ikejime roughskin sole (3.1kg) grilled with kampot pepper sauce. The fish texture was similar to stingray but fattier. And probably because of the association, I liked how chef Jeffery chose a spicy sauce. Spicy in the sense it was peppery rather than chilli-y. Enjoyed this!
10) Congee (above) – With matara shirako, matsutake mushroom, root vegetables.
11) Gelato (above) – Japanese autumn pears, quinta do noval white port, gin. To me, this was like vanilla ice cream with pear bits.
It’s without doubt that every diner could feel chef Jeffery’s passion come through his cooking. It’s very amazing how far he has come, especially since he self-taught himself on how to cook, etc. And of all the dishes, I especially enjoyed those which chef Jeffery put a clever local spin on the Japanese ingredients. However, I wasn’t sure if it’s because of the (limited selection of) fishes that chef Jeffery got for our meal, but there was a bit too many aburi (seared) dishes. The meal would have been more balanced and thus enjoyable if the aburi dishes were limited to say… 30% of the meal.
I also got to admit it was slightly stressful whenever chef Jeffery checked in with the respective groups. I felt like I was taking a test because he would ask specific question like “how you find the taste”, etc. I felt like I be judged if I gave the wrong answer. But that’s me. My girlfriend was fine with it. So I let her do most of the answering. Hahaha.
Would I recommend Ovenbird? Well… I do think Ovenbird is worth trying at least once. I’m already planning trying to return for the other seasonal menu.
OVENBIRD
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371 Beach Road, City Gate, #B1-21, Singapore
Website, 9699 5943
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Overall: 7
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Opening hours:-
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Food/Beverage: 7
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Wed – Sat : 19:30 – 22:15
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Ambience: 6
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Value: 8
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Service: 7
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* Closed on Mon, Tues & Sun
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